📦 Sea-Doo PWC Sacrificial Anode – Zinc Corrosion Protection for GTI 130 to RXP 300
Protect your Sea-Doo personal watercraft's engine and pump housing from the destructive effects of
galvanic corrosion with this direct‑fit sacrificial zinc anode. Designed for a range of Rotax‑powered
models from the GTI 130 all the way up to the high‑performance RXP 300, this compact puck‑style anode
bolts directly into the factory‑specified mounting location on the jet pump or engine cooling passage.
In saltwater and brackish environments, stray electrical currents and dissimilar metals turn your PWC's
aluminum castings into a battery—and without a healthy anode, your expensive engine components become
the metal that corrodes. Replacing this small zinc puck during your seasonal service is one of the
cheapest and most effective maintenance steps you can take. At just 26 mm in diameter and 6 mm thick,
it's easy to overlook, but leaving a depleted one in place can lead to pitted pump housings, leaking
cooling passages, and costly off‑season repairs.
⚠️ Routine Maintenance Reminder: Inspect this anode every 50 hours or at the start of each season. Replace
immediately if more than half the original material has been consumed. A worn anode offers zero protection.
✨ Key Features of Sea-Doo Sacrificial Zinc Anode
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Direct OEM‑Style Fit: Precision‑cast to match the factory anode dimensions for Sea‑Doo GTI, GTX, WAKE, and RXP/RXT models with Rotax engines.
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Marine‑Grade Zinc Alloy: Formulated to corrode before your aluminum engine castings, pump housing, and heat exchanger do.
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Compact Puck Design: Small footprint (26 mm diameter × 6 mm thickness) with a 6.5 mm center mounting hole for secure bolt‑on installation.
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Broad Model Coverage: Compatible with a wide range of 4‑stroke Sea‑Doo watercraft, from the recreational GTI 130 to the supercharged RXP 300.
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Easy Visual Inspection: Bright silver zinc surface clearly shows pitting and material loss—no special tools needed to check condition.
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Seasonal Service Essential: Keep a spare in your trailer kit. Swapping a worn anode takes minutes and saves hundreds in corrosion repair.
📏 Specifications – Sea-Doo Sacrificial Anode
| Material |
Zinc Alloy (Marine-Grade Sacrificial Anode) |
| Diameter |
26 mm |
| Thickness |
6 mm |
| Mounting Hole Diameter |
6.5 mm |
| Shape |
Round puck / disc |
| Compatible Models |
Sea‑Doo GTI 130, GTI SE, GTX, WAKE, RXP, RXT (4‑stroke Rotax engines) |
| Application |
Jet pump housing, engine cooling passage, heat exchanger anode |
| Inspection Interval |
Every 50 hours or once per season; replace when ≥50% consumed |
| Package Includes |
1 × zinc sacrificial anode (mounting hardware not included) |
❓ Frequently Asked Questions – Sea-Doo Anode
Q: How do I know if this anode fits my specific Sea-Doo model?
A: This 26 mm diameter puck anode fits most 4‑stroke Sea‑Doo watercraft with Rotax engines, including GTI 130, GTI SE, GTX, WAKE, RXP, and RXT series. Check your existing anode's diameter and bolt hole spacing—if it measures 26 mm across with a center hole, this is the correct replacement.
Q: Where exactly is this anode located on my Sea-Doo?
A: The exact location varies by model. Common mounting points include the jet pump housing, the engine's cooling system passage, or the intercooler heat exchanger on supercharged models. Consult your owner's manual or look for a small round zinc puck bolted to an aluminum casting.
Q: How often should I replace this anode if I ride in saltwater?
A: In saltwater, inspect it every 25–30 hours of riding. The anode sacrifices itself faster in high‑salinity environments. If your Sea‑Doo lives on a lift or dock in the water, check it monthly. Replace when roughly half the original thickness remains.
Q: Can I replace this anode myself without special tools?
A: Absolutely. Most are secured with a single bolt accessible without removing body panels. Remove the old bolt, clean the mounting surface to bare metal, place the new anode, and torque the bolt to factory spec. The entire job takes under 10 minutes with basic hand tools.
Q: What happens if I don't replace a worn anode?
A: Once the zinc puck is consumed, galvanic corrosion will attack the aluminum pump housing, engine castings, or heat exchanger next. This leads to pitting, expensive replacement of major components, and potential cooling system leaks that could strand you on the water.
